On the road from Darwin south on Saturday, in the midst of flat tableland, the turnoff seemed entirely unprepossessing – simply more gum trees, termite mounds (cathedral, tree and magnetic for those who are interested) and grasses. Until, the trees became palms, the vegetation lush and we were in what seemed an oasis.

At the end of a short walk a thin, high waterfall fell into a “plunge” pool. We swam in the natural pool in temperatures that were warm by Canadian standards. Given the daytime temperatures in the mid-30’s I could done with a Stoney Lake temperature.

This morning (Sunday) we walked around the pool and the falls before heading off on our way to Kakadu Park. This evening we are camped by the Mary River where signs warn people to stay 15 metres from the river’s edge because of crocodiles. Having seen one very large crocodile from the bridge driving in we are more than happy to give the river a wide berth.

As I type we are seated quite comfortably on the verandah of the café, white wine and a bottle of water, talking with a couple from Basel, Switzerland who have just completed the route we are taking. It’s the best way to find out what are the sights to see, what is closed and what they found to be the highlights.

We love our car top sleeping with a good mattress and once we discover how to ignore the ever present flies, “we’ll be right mate.”

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